I just started fixing up my fathers Vapenfabriks A.B. Nitro 149XXX.

• Husqvarna Rifle Serial Number Decoding

It has a Monte Carlo stock with flat bottom pistol grip, slide adjustable ramp rear sight for I believe 100-300 yards. It has a push button in front of the trigger guard for removal of the mag floor plate. 600mm barrel. GREAT shooting gun Dad has always had a bit of 'Scottish pride' regarding his $28 3-9x30 bushnell scope from the 70's and how many deer it's killed.

But after this years 'fail' on a nice mule deer from aging eyes in low light looking into the setting sun with the Ol' antique sportview, I was given the green light to bring the gun into the modern age with a new scope, rings, mounts. For the scope I'm going with a leapers 4-16x50 AO mil dot I'm wondering though. Will a Mauser 98 picatinny rail fit his receiver screw holes? I know there's issues with stripper clips but this isn't a military model it's for filling the freezer:D the following is what I'm considering. Sooo update on the rifle. After a complete dis-assembly and finding tons of years worth of carbon build up and gunk (surprise?)in the bolt assembly that hasn't been cleaned in 40 years, things are running much smoother now.

I've found a few small hairline cracks in the stock, one behind the mag well and a typical one at the rear of the tang. I'm going to glass bed the action with devcon 2 ton and that should get some more solid years out of the rifle stock. I installed a crispy razor sharp 2 lb Timney trigger (that I polished with with a ceramic stone) and Dad was AMAZED what modern machining can provide! ( maybe I can con him into buying a mill to finish the machine work, wait that won't work he's Scottish and tighter than bark on a tree! NM) I machined a picatinny rail with 20 MOA slope to fit (the span length between the holes was off by a few thousandths) Also added a UTG 1/4 MOA 4-16x 50mm scope with illuminated mil dot, a step up from the 1/2MOA 3-9x 32mm! Hopefully he can see that monster buck he missed out on in WY this year this time around:D Any suggestions on a bluing or parkerizing finish?

I was thinking oil bathe all the metal for several months and let the metal soak as much oil as it can and polishing it. Like log truckers do with the floor boards on their rigs.

If not I have some good methods for super blue. The bluing is pretty sparse on parts of the barrel and trigger guard. Ok, since you asked, here is my opinion: Scope: I would use a different scope. The leapers you chose is Chinese junk, in my opinion, and is more likely to fail on you than the old Bushnell.

There are other hunting (not 'tactical') scopes from reputable companies that are inexpensive and will serve you much better. You're going to have to spend more than you did for the Leapers, but you REALLY get what you pay for in optics. There is NO need for a 20 MOA rail.

It is a hunting rifle, and will reach out to any reasonable hunting range (and then some!) with a normal mount. Glass bedding: Good idea! It will help keep your stock from cracking further, and might improve the rifle's accuracy.

Do your homework how to do it, if you haven't done it before. It's not hard, but you can make a mess if you don't have a plan when you start. Refinishing: I would leave it alone. It has a pretty nice finish for a rifle of that age!!! I think an old working rifle should have a worn, but well maintained, blued finish. To protect the existing bluing, pull the action from the stock and buff everything with Turtle Wax for cars. It works wonders for corrosion protection and sticks better than oil without being 'wet.'

You've got a fantastic rifle there! Take care of it and it will be filling the freezer for a long time. I think for a 30-06 hunting rifle, 16X is WAY more magnification than you need, and the Mil-dot redicle won't be very useful. Do you know how to range in Mils? If not, they are of little use.

These are some scopes I would recommend. They are the most inexpensive scopes that I would trust on a hunting rifle: The Nikon and Leupold scopes even have a built in BDC redicle, which would be much better than a Mil-dot for holdovers in hunting situations. All of the above also have LIFETIME warranties. Please reconsider the UTG!!!!! I know, I would like to have selected a slightly higher priced scope. But we are talking about a very stubborn and cheap man here, you've no idea!

He fails to grasp the concept 'you get what you pay for and pay for what you get' all he sees is dollar signs. A wiser old shop owner 'told me cheap s#!+ is for rich people' because it breaks/fails/doesn't work and you have to buy a replacement! Thanks Dan-O for the reminder I totally forgot about WAX!

And yes I'm familiar with the bedding process. (thanks AGI!) I wish I could get my father into actual shooting but he's just a 'gun owner' and not a shooter. His sole interest is filling the freezer. I on the other hand realize how far our typical shot is and want as much of an edge and skill set I can get! According to him cheek weld and comb height don't matter and sight alignment makes no difference at all.

A cheek pad makes a rifle 'ugly' I even offered to make a handmade 'pretty' one out of rosewood or walnut, nope!palm to face sigh, banging my head now. This is why he can't hit a barn with his shotgun the stock doesn't FIT him! ANYHOW enough stressing about that, back to my classical music.

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What sort of issues are folks having with the leapers scopes? As long as it gathers more light and holds a zero it should work for Mr. Skinflint Last edited by black beer'd; at 10:09 PM. That's funny because my old man was the one who taught me that you get what you pay for. That's a good point that you can't afford cheap gear.

As for the Leapers scope, I had one of theirs on an AR as a novelty. It would not hold zero AT ALL. When you changed the power, the zero shifted even to the point where there was an 8' difference in point of impact at the lowest power compared with the highest. I can either think of that as the cheapest scope I ever bought, or the most expensive paperweight. As for reloading, for most hunters, it doesn't make sense. The start up cost is high, so it takes A LOT of rounds to 'break even.'

Even then, you have to take into account that your time has value and loading your own takes a lot more time and effort than buying a new box of ammo. Good luck with your project. Hva 1640.with older type sights.stock looks heavily sanded at bolt stop changes in shape. 4000 series with sights. As far as scopes.the older the eyes you have to buy the higher price scopes with much better glass. Nikon makes excellent opts at lower prices. 16 in hit zone on a deer.no need of mil dots but nikon makes them also!

Soake metal in kerosene to penetrate rust clean and forget re blueing. Compass in the buttstock added. When stock was sanded i imagine?

Husqvarna Rifle Serial Number Decoding

Worth.its history to family, hunting abilities and excellent lineage! Nice gun.with the high rings to clear the saftey and adjustment ring. With the low sporter stock will make it very difficult to place head steadyed. It seemed many come across this problem with modern scopes and or too short to mount. A steel weaver fixed power 6 x scope a few others 4 x powers, even 8 powere fixed some others trial error. More near the time period 'look' and or steel lower rings in weaver mounts.

Will fit the total profile of your 1000, FN action. I have peep sights on my 1000, 1200, 1951.to keep them classic looking.

Took off early weaver off one of them.? None centering cross hairs.